Safari Photography Tips for your visit to Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages - from a professional photographer

We wanted to share some helpful photography tips for your next visit to Ol Pejeta but, whilst our team certainly can take a decent picture or two, we thought it would be best to get the low-down from a much-loved regular guest to The Safari Cottages and, ideally, an international, award-winning wildlife photographer to boot. Enter, Margot.

Margot Raggett MBE is a wildlife photographer and the founder of the wildly successful Remembering Wildlife conservation book project, which has raised over £1.26 million for endangered species protection worldwide. Through her photography, books and public talks, she hopes to inspire people to connect with wildlife and support conservation. We’re so thrilled she’s taken some time out of her busy schedule to share her best wildlife photography tips for your Ol Pejeta safari.

Conservationist and professional wildlife photographer Margot Raggett pays homage to Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino who passed away from old age on Ol Pejeta in 2018

Best camera and equipment for a safari

Phones vs DSLRs? What lenses should you bring?

The most important piece of advice I can give anyone going on safari is actually not about cameras at all — it’s to remember to look up. Some of the most magical moments you will ever experience happen very quickly and if you spend the entire time buried in menus and settings, you can miss them. Your memories matter more than your photographs.

• DSLRs: I would never recommend someone buying complicated camera equipment just before their first safari if they don’t really understand how to use it. Safari is not the place to be learning a new camera system from scratch — it can quickly become stressful rather than enjoyable.

• Phones: Phones can take surprisingly good images these days, but they have one big limitation: reach. If you rely only on a phone, you often feel tempted to get too close to wildlife, which is neither safe nor respectful. Animals should never have to adjust their behaviour because of us.

As a professional photographer I use a long zoom lens (around 400mm), a 70–200mm lens and a shorter lens for wider scenes. However, for a typical safari guest I’d suggest something much simpler: A camera with a zoom lens in the region of 100–400mm (or 100–500mm) is ideal. It allows you to photograph animals from a safe and comfortable distance and gives you huge flexibility — elephants nearby and a leopard in a tree can both be captured with the same lens.

In short: you don’t need the most expensive camera — you need a camera you’re comfortable using.

Rhino at Sunset on Ol Pejeta x Margot Raggett

Best times of day for photographs

Golden hour, midday light, cloudy and rainy days: photographers chase light more than animals.

The classic safari photography times are just after sunrise and just before sunset — the “golden hours.” The low sun creates warm tones, long shadows and beautiful atmosphere, and it’s also when animals tend to be most active. If you can face the early alarm clock on safari, it is absolutely worth it.

However, I always tell people not to ignore the middle of the day. While the light is harsher, some of my favourite images have been taken then because behaviour matters more than lighting. A dramatic interaction, a hunt, or playful cubs will always beat perfect light. Modern cameras and editing also allow us to work with much brighter conditions than in the past.

Playful jackal pups in the midday sun x Margot Raggett

No sunshine? No problem.

• Cloudy days can actually be wonderful — the clouds act like a giant softbox, giving even light and lovely detail in fur and skin.

• Rain is even better; I personally love photographing animals in rain or storms. The atmosphere, droplets, dark skies and mood can produce very powerful images — just make sure your camera is protected. A simple rain sleeve or even a plastic cover in your bag can save your equipment.

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Composition, framing and patience

Photography is really about seeing, not equipment.

One simple starting point is the “rule of thirds.” Imagine your frame divided into a grid of three horizontal and three vertical lines. Placing the animal slightly off-centre — particularly allowing space in front of where it is looking or moving — usually creates a more pleasing image than putting it dead centre.

But rules are only guides. If you think the image works, it works.

A leopard photographed on Ol Pejeta by Margot Raggett using the rule of thirds

Patience Pays.

More important than composition is patience. Many people arrive at an animal sighting, take a few pictures, and leave. The best photographs often happen over time. Animals relax, behaviour unfolds, interactions develop and the story appears.

Spend time with your subject. Watch before you shoot.

And of course, the Remembering Wildlife books are a wonderful source of inspiration — they show just how many different creative approaches to wildlife photography there can be.

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Ethical wildlife photography

This is the most important subject of all - a good wildlife photograph should never come at the expense of the animal. If your presence changes the animal’s behaviour, you are too close.

• Never try to attract an animal’s attention by making noises, clapping, whistling or throwing objects.

• Never ask a guide to reposition a vehicle in a way that blocks an animal’s path or stresses it.

The welfare of the animal must always override the photograph. This is another reason long lenses are so useful — they allow you to observe and photograph from a respectful distance. Your guide is your partner in this. Communicate with them. Good guides understand positioning, light and animal comfort zones, and they want you to get great photographs without disturbing wildlife.

A truly successful safari photograph is one taken responsibly.

Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages guides observing wildlife from a respectful distance on a game drive

Tips for non-photographers (phone users & simple cameras)

If you’re not a photographer, my advice is very simple: don’t feel pressure to be one.

Sometimes people become so focused on getting the “perfect” image that they forget to experience what is in front of them. Seeing wild animals in their natural environment is rare and extraordinary — allow yourself to just watch.

That said, phones are wonderful for memories. I actually use my iPhone a lot on safari for short video clips and personal moments — the sounds of birds at dawn, elephants walking past camp, or the atmosphere around a sighting. These often become my most treasured memories.

A few simple tips:

• Keep your phone steady (rest it on the vehicle if possible)

• Tap to focus on the animal

• Slightly reduce exposure if the sky is bright

• Take short videos as well as photos

And most importantly: enjoy it.
You don’t need a portfolio — you need memories.

Making memories; Margot visits Baraka during her visit to Ol Pejeta Conservancy

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Family Safari in Kenya: Visiting Ol Pejeta with Kids

The idea of a family safari often comes with a quiet hesitation. Will the children cope with early mornings? Is it safe? Will teenagers be bored, or toddlers overwhelmed? These are the kinds of questions and concerns we hear all the time — and they're completely understandable.

The truth is that a well-planned family safari isn't just possible. It's one of the most remarkable things you can do together. Watching your child see an elephant for the first time, or hearing them whisper as a lion walks past the vehicle, creates the kind of shared memory that stays with a family for a lifetime.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy, in the heart of Kenya's Laikipia region, is one of the most family-friendly safari destinations in East Africa. Here's everything you need to know before you book.

A guest at The Safari Cottages watches an elephant with her daughter over lunchtime

Is Ol Pejeta Suitable for Families?

The short answer is yes — we welcome families of all ages to The Safari Cottages year-round and, in many ways, Ol Pejeta is better suited to families than Kenya's busier national parks.

Safety comes first. Ol Pejeta is a fenced conservancy with strict wildlife protocols and highly experienced guides driving within strict speed limits on open terrain. Game drives take place in enclosed vehicles, and your guide will always brief you and your family before heading out. Children are safe, well-supervised, and — in our experience — far braver than their parents expect.

Shorter game drives are entirely possible. Unlike fixed itinerary tours, a private safari at The Safari Cottages means your schedule is yours. If younger children need to return home after two hours, that's exactly what happens. There's no pressure to stay out until everyone is exhausted. You go when you're ready, and you come back when you've had enough.

Private guiding makes all the difference. Shared game drives can be frustrating with children — especially if little ones need a snack, a wriggle, or a bathroom stop. With a private guide and vehicle dedicated entirely to your family, the pace, the route, and the conversation are all shaped around you. Your guide can adapt their storytelling to suit a six-year-old just as easily as a sixteen-year-old.

Runo (20months) on a game drive

Spotting rhinos!

Best Safari Activities for Kids

Children experience a safari differently to adults — and often more vividly. The key is giving them ways to engage actively with what they're seeing.

Wildlife spotting games are a simple and surprisingly effective way to keep younger children focused and excited on game drives. Ask your guide to help set up a spotter's checklist before you head out — how many of the Big Five can the family find today? Who spots the first giraffe? Games like these give children a sense of agency and adventure, and they tend to produce a surprising level of concentration.

Nature walks offer a completely different pace from a game drive, and one that children often respond to with great curiosity. Walking focuses attention on the smaller details — tracks in the dust, insects, plants, bird calls — and opens up conversations about the ecosystem and gives them the chance to learn, touch and play. This is a great activity to do in camp with an askari or guide; we have several lovely walking trails around the property.

Learning about conservation is one of the most powerful things a child can take away from a safari at Ol Pejeta. The conservancy is home to Najin and Fatu, the world's last two northern white rhinos, and a visit to meet them — with an expert guide who can explain their story — tends to leave a deep impression on children and adults alike. Questions follow for days afterwards. That's exactly the point.

Campfire S’mores - chocolate biscuits and marsh mellows, what more can we say? The askaris love roasting marsh mellows with kids around the evening fire and showing them the stars.

Roasting marshmallows around the fire at The Safari Cottages

Ideal Ages for a Family Safari

There is no single right age for a first safari, but there are some honest differences worth knowing about...

Toddlers and very young children can absolutely enjoy a safari experience — the sights, sounds, and general wonder of the bush are engaging at almost any age. The considerations are more practical though: nap schedules, short attention spans, and the need for flexibility. Private accommodation and a private guide make this far more manageable than it would be on a shared tour. If your family includes very young children, we'd simply suggest building extra downtime into each day and keeping drives relaxed in length.

Children aged six to twelve tend to thrive on safari. They're old enough to understand what they're seeing, young enough to be completely and unselfconsciously amazed by it, and at an age where the conservation story — the rhinos, the wildlife recovery projects, the ecosystem — genuinely captures their imagination. This is arguably the sweet spot for a first family safari.

Teenagers often arrive on safari with measured expectations and leave as genuine converts. Giving older children a camera, encouraging them to keep a wildlife journal, or asking the guide to talk them through tracking and navigation tends to unlock a level of engagement that surprises everyone. A safari that feels curated for adults can easily be shaped into something that feels genuinely exciting for a fifteen or sixteen-year-old — especially one who's accustomed to being the least interested person in the room.

A family with young teenagers on a game drive

Accommodation & Meal Considerations

One of the things that makes a family stay at The Safari Cottages particularly well-suited to parents is the degree of flexibility built into everyday life here.

Meals are prepared by your private chef, which means the menu adapts to your family rather than the other way around. Fussy eaters, dietary requirements, children who want plain pasta at 5pm — none of this is a problem. Your chef will talk through preferences on arrival and make sure every meal works for every member of the family. Breakfast can be a picnic in the bush or on the verandah. Lunch can be earlier, or later. Dinner can happen whenever the children are fed and the adults are ready, even if that means eating at different times and different meals entirely.

Schedules are entirely flexible. There are no set departure times, no shared dining rooms, and no need to coordinate with other guests. This matters more than it sounds when you're travelling with children. The freedom to adapt the day in real time — to extend a morning game drive, to cut a picnic short, to let a tired child sleep in — changes the entire experience of travelling as a family.

Addie (2yrs) enjoying brunch in the bush with The Safari Cottages team

Tips for a Stress-Free Family Safari

A few practical notes from years of welcoming families to Ol Pejeta:

Pack for the temperature range, not just the heat. Early morning game drives can be genuinely cold, even in the warmer months. Children feel the chill more quickly than adults, so pack a fleece or light jacket for every member of the family regardless of the time of year. Layers are your friend.

Bring binoculars for the children. This sounds small, but it transforms a game drive. Giving a child their own pair of binoculars — even an inexpensive set — makes them feel like an active participant rather than a passenger. Wildlife becomes something they're finding and focusing on themselves.

Let the days breathe. The temptation on a family holiday is to fill every hour. On safari, the opposite approach tends to produce the best results. A slow morning, a long lunch, an afternoon rest, then an evening drive — this rhythm suits children well, and it suits the wildlife too. The bush rewards patience, and children learn this faster than most adults expect.

Talk to your guide. Before each drive, spend five minutes with your guide letting them know the mood of the group, what the children are most interested in, and what the family's energy levels are like that day. A great guide will shape the entire experience around this — and your guide at The Safari Cottages will have the experience and the instinct to make it work beautifully.

A family safari on Ol Pejeta isn't a compromise on the adult experience. It's a different kind of experience entirely — one where wonder is shared, where questions multiply, and where the bush reveals itself through the eyes of people seeing it for the very first time.

Sundowners with warm milk and a cookie

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Driving to Ol Pejeta: A Scenic Safari Road Trip Guide

For many travelers, the journey to a safari destination is just as memorable as the safari itself. Flying into conservancies is common in Kenya and both Air Kenya and Safarilink offer a number of flights a day into Nanyuki and Kamok Airstrip from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport and other popular locations like Samburu and the Masai Mara. Flying is a fantastic way to see the country from the air, not to mention quick and convenient; the flight from Nairobi Wilson Airport to Nanyuki is just 50 minutes! It’s important to bear in mind though that local flights in Kenya come with strict weight restrictions and allow passengers a maximum of 15kgs in soft bags only. If you’re traveling lightly and staying just a week or so this might be the perfect option for you. If you have suitcases or are staying longer you might opt to drive instead. If you’re planning on driving to Ol Pejeta, this blog is for you!

Why Some Travellers Prefer Driving Over Flying

Driving to Ol Pejeta Conservancy offers scenic landscapes, cultural encounters, and a gradual transition from city life into the calm rhythm of the bush. A road trip safari allows you to experience Kenya at ground level; you travel through changing landscapes, pass local towns and farmland, and watch the scenery slowly transform into open savannah, turning the journey itself into part of the adventure. This is a great way to see the country really authentically; watching farmers in their fields, shop keepers rolling out their goods for the day and passing waving children on their way to school.

It’s a beautiful way to ease into the rhythm of your safari; to take things a little slower and enjoy the countryside from ground-level, rather than arriving all at once.

Route Options from Nairobi

Most travellers begin their journey from Nairobi where inter-city highways and main roads are busy but work very well and, following the right route, you will be traveling up the Thika highway toward Nyeri pretty quickly.

The highway through Nairobi city centre

Travel Time

The drive typically takes approximately 4 to 5 hours, depending on traffic, road conditions, and stops along the way. We recommend guests staying at The Safari Cottages on Ol Pejeta leave Nairobi no later than 8AM to allow enough time for an unhurried drive up North, arriving in time for lunch and an afternoon activity. It’s important to note that the conservancy gates will shut at 7PM so arrivals later than this will not be permitted entry.

Road Conditions

The road from Nairobi to Nyeri is now a major highway and it’s pretty well maintained all the way up until Karatina where it narrows from multiple lanes to two lanes (in February 2026 - this road will be expanded into a dual carriage-way all the way until the Nanyuki turn turn-off before Nyeri), but it is still tarmaced and of good quality. Infact you’ll only say goodbye to the tarmac a few hundred metres from the Ol Pejeta Rongai entry gate, where the final section of the route transitions to smaller roads as you approach the conservancy. While most of the journey is on tarmac, some access roads may be gravel where road works are in effect and especially closer to the Ol Pejeta entry gate.

A standard vehicle can manage the drive in dry conditions, though a higher-clearance vehicle offers added comfort and if you plan to self-drive in Ol Pejeta you will need a 4WD vehicle with high clearance.

Thika highway

The road from Nanyuki to Ol Pejeta

Scenic Stops Along the Way

One of the joys of driving is the ability to pause and explore. As you travel North, landscapes shift from urban Nairobi to rolling farmland, forested hills, and open plains. Certain viewpoints along the route offer beautiful photo opportunities and panoramic views of central Kenya. The journey takes you through several charming places to stop for refreshments — from roadside cafés, curio shops bursting with hand crafted goodies to small towns where you can enjoy local food and coffee. These breaks provide you with a chance to stretch your legs they also aadd some colour to the journey, making the drive feel like part of the experience rather than just transport.

If you’d like to stop for lunch there are a number of excellent restaurant in and near Nanyuki town but our favourite is by far is The Trout Tree Restaurant; a unique eatery suspended in a giant fig tree along a riverline. Colobus monkeys are famous for visiting diners here and, as the name suggests, this is a trout farm so you can enjoy fresh trout from your perch in the trees.

The Trout Tree Restaurant Dining Area

Entrance to The Trout Tree Restaurant

What to Expect at the Conservancy Gate

Arriving at Ol Pejeta’s entrance marks the beginning of your safari and the entry process is seamless and simple.

Entry Process

At the gate, you’ll complete a simple online registration form and pay the conservancy entry fees depending on your residency status (if this is not already included as part of your stay). If you are self-driving in the conservancy you will also be required to register your vehicle and pay a daily vehicle entry fee. Staff are helpful and efficient, and the process is generally quick. The entry gate also has clean toilets.

Navigation Inside the Conservancy

Once inside, roads in the Eastern sector of the conservancy are gravelled, clearly marked, and signage helps guide visitors to their respective lodges and accommodation areas. If you are staying in a camp in the wilderness area and are self-driving in Ol Pejeta you’ll need clear driving instructions to get to your accommodation from the camp manager, as these roads are not well signposted and can get tricky to navigate in wet weather. Wildlife sightings often begin almost immediately after entry, making the arrival itself feel like the start of your safari experience.

Gracvel roads in the Eastern sector of the conservancy (suitable for self driving)

Self-Drive vs Guided Safari

Both self-drive and guided safaris can offer wonderful experiences, depending on your travel style and how comfortable you are driving in safari areas and around wild animals.

Self-drive: travellers exploring Ol Pejeta in their own vehicles are required to stick to the Eastern Sector of the conservancy where roads are well-maintained and clearly indicated on maps, and we only recommend you drive yourself if you know the conservancy well and know how to conduct yourself safely and respectfully around wildlife.

Guided Safari: for the most part though visitors driving up to Ol Pejeta and staying at The Safari Cottages will wave their driver off at the gate and stay with us on a guided, fully inclusive package where your guide will have access to the wilderness area. They know the road networks like the back of their hand, have insight on where wildlife was last seen or might be heading next and know how to show you the animals in a professional manner so you can really get the very best out of your experience.

Guests on a guided safari with The Safari Cottages; an unmarked track in the wilderness area

Tips for a Comfortable Road Trip

Here are a few tips and ideas for simple preparations that can make your journey smoother:

What to Pack

• Water and snacks; of course! You’ll find hawkers selling fruit and nuts and other goodies on the way too though we recommend only buying peeling fruit like bananas and mangoes.

• Sunglasses and sun protection, especially if you’re traveling in the heat of the day - if your vehicle has air-conditioning but your exposed to the sunshine on your journey you might not realise how hot the sun is.

• Offline maps or GPS - depending on where you’re traveling to or from Google Maps can sometimes lead you astray so a back up, good-old-fashioned paper map is always a good idea to keep on hand

• Camera and binoculars - you never know what you’re going to see along the way!

Fuel and Timing

• Fill up in Nairobi before you depart or in major towns along the way

• Avoid night driving when possible and be sure to arrive at Ol Pejeta Rongai Gate well before the 7PM cut off time

• Allow extra time for stops and photo breaks on your journey

• Get off nice and early to enjoy cooler temperatures and quieter roads

Drive safely and slowly, keep an open mind and stay flexible so that the journey is part of the adventure rather than a rush to your destination.

Arrive by Road and Settle into Your Safari Home

Driving to Ol Pejeta offers more than just transport — it’s an introduction to Kenya’s landscapes, cultures, and rhythms. By the time you arrive, you’re already immersed in the safari experience and eager for more. It’s a wonderful way to experience Kenya! Whether you’re traveling independently or with a guide, a road journey allows you to arrive gently, ready to relax and enjoy the wildlife, the scenery, and the stillness of the conservancy.

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Birdwatching at Ol Pejeta Conservancy: A Seasonal Guide

While Ol Pejeta Conservancy is best known for its rhinos, elephants, lions and big game, a lesser known boast is that it’s also one of central Kenya’s most rewarding destinations for birdwatching. With diverse habitats ranging from open savannah to riverine woodland and acacia groves, the conservancy supports an extraordinary variety of birdlife throughout the year including endemic and migratory species.

Whether you’re a dedicated birder with an extensive birding list, the birder who loves to obsess over the LBJs (little brown jobs) or simply someone who enjoys spotting wildlife in all its forms, birdwatching at Ol Pejeta offers all safari-goers a peaceful, immersive bird watching experience.

Why Ol Pejeta Is Special for Birdwatching

Ol Pejeta’s varied ecosystems create ideal conditions for both resident and migratory bird species. The vast open grasslands attract raptors and ground birds, while rivers and acacia woodland areas support a multitude of songbirds, waterbirds and forest species including rarer species like the Abyssinian scimitarbill and Blue-naped mousebird.

 Our guides are all keen birders and having a private vehicle use for your safari at The Safari Cottages means there’s time to stop, observe, and listen. This sort of flexibility breaths glorious life into “a slow safari” and allows guests to enjoy our colourful birdlife as part of the living landscape and not just as another mark on a tick list.

Resident Birds You Can See Year-Round

One of our favourite things about our days at The Safari Cottages is the cacophony of birdlife that pulls you from the depths of your slumber at dawn each day; a riot of babblers, starlings and bulbuls to name a few. You don’t need to wander too far from your safari cottage find come of the more commonly spotted bird species on Ol Pejeta. These include…

• Glossy and superb starlings eyeing up any crumbs left on the lunch table

• Secretary birds striding across open plains, they are incredible but it’s the Kori bustards who truly rule the open grassland areas

• Hornbills, kingfishers and weavers chattering in woodlands and river systems

• Eagles and vultures soaring above the savannah in search of their next meal

Seasonal Migratory Birds at Ol Pejeta

If the plethora of birdlife already on offer isn’t enough to satisfy your very fascination in  Kenya’s birdlife then you’ll be thrilled to hear that there are also certain times of year that migratory birds appear in the skies and trees of the conservancy, adding even greater diversity to Ol Pejeta’s bird population.

November to April is the main migratory season in Laikipia, when birds from Europe and northern Africa arrive in Kenya. During these months, birdwatchers can enjoy increased species diversity and vibrant breeding plumage. Keep your eyes peeled for European bee-eaters, Montagus and Marsh Harriers, Abdims storks and Steppe eagles.

Best Habitats for Birdwatching at Ol Pejeta

Different habitats attract different species, making exploration part of the experience and Ol Pejeta makes such a wonderful birding location with thanks to the diversity in its landscapes.

• Riverine areas: park up with a cup of coffee and look out for kingfishers, herons and waders

• Open plains: you’ll find secretary birds, crowned cranes, bustards, larks, pipits and raptors in abundance

• Woodland: sunbirds, hornbills, weavers and hoopoes flitter in the foliage

• Wetlands and water points: ideal spaces to spot storks, ibis and ducks

**Moving between different habitats on game drives allows for varied and rewarding bird sightings throughout the day, but remember to take your time and linger at each location; when you slow down you see so much more.

Tips for Beginner Birdwatchers on Safari

You don’t need to be an expert birder to enjoy birdwatching at Ol Pejeta, but a few simple tips can really help enhance the experience:

• Bring binoculars for better viewing; your guide will carry a pair which they are happy to share but it’s always helpful to have your own on hand for quick and easy access

• Use a basic bird guide like a book or an identification app. The ‘Birds of East Africa’ book by Terry Stevenson and John Fanshawe is Andy’s pick, or The African Bird Club; Birds of Africa app is a good start for beginners/one-time safari visitors

• Take time to listen — many birds are heard before they’re seen and your guide can help you identify bird calls

• Ask your guide questions — local knowledge adds depth and perspective to every sighting; a great chance to understand the circle of life and just how intricately involved it in birds are (click here to meet our guides)

Plan a Birdwatching Safari at Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages

Whether you’re a passionate birder or simply someone who appreciates nature’s quieter moments, The Safari Cottages offer a birdwatching experience on Ol Pejeta that feels immersive, peaceful, and deeply rewarding. Plus private vehicle use means you can take your time at special sightings, or get stuck in and search for that one species that continues to evade you!

Wildlife You Can See at Ol Pejeta Conservancy (Beyond the Big Five)

When most people think of a Kenyan safari, they think of the famous Big Five — lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. While our wonderful home on Ol Pejeta Conservancy is easily one of the best places in Africa to see these iconic animals (if we do say so ourselves), what truly sets it apart is the extraordinary diversity of wildlife you’ll encounter beyond these more famous species.

Located in the Laikipia region of central Kenya, just a four-hour drive or a 50-minute flight from Nairobi, Ol Pejeta often offers its visitors a quiet, intimate safari experience where wildlife sightings feel personal and unhurried. Whether you’re visiting for the first time or returning for another safari, there’s always something new to discover.

A birds-eye view of The Safari Cottages on Ol Pejeta

Exploring The Ol Pejeta Conservancy Wilderness Area

Ol Pejeta is one of Kenya’s most important and famous wildlife conservancies; combining conservation with community engagement, ranching and tourism. Its varied landscapes — open savannah, acacia woodland and riverine habitat — create ideal conditions for a wide range of animal and bird species. Perhaps most famously, Ol Pejeta is home to the largest population of black rhinos in East Africa and plays a critical and inspiring role in global rhino conservation through it’s world-renowned Northern White Rhino IVF program. But if you’re looking for a private, authentic safari experience then you’ve opened the right blog post today; the secret to experiencing that best that Ol Pejeta has to offer is by booking a fully inclusive safari, so you can have access to The Wilderness Area.

What is The Ol Pejeta Conservancy Wilderness Area? So glad you asked! This vast tract of land is off limits to self drives and visitors not staying overnight. Only a handful of high quality camps and lodges, like The Safari Cottages, with professional guides and well maintained vehicles have game viewing rights in the Ol Pejeta Wilderness Area where, with fewer vehicles at sightings, you have the space and time to observe animal behaviour naturally.

Iconic Wildlife You’re Likely to See at Ol Pejeta

Rhinos (Black and White): Ol Pejeta is one of the most reliable places in Kenya to see both black and white rhinos. Sightings are a daily occurrence and it’s not unusual to see multiple individuals in a single game drive. During your stay you can also visit the last Northern White Rhinos in existence to learn more about how Ol Pejeta is bringing this species back from the brink of extinction and making waves in the conservation world. When you visit the Northern White Rhino don’t forget to pop in and see Baraka; a rescued black rhino that is cared for by Ol Pejeta and has grown very fond of his human caretakers.

Elephants: Large elephant herds roam freely across the conservancy. Watching them interact — from playful calves to protective matriarchs — is a highlight for many guests. At The Safari Cottages a wildlife trail meanders along the riverline in front of our property so we’re often visited by these wonderful creatures as they come down to the river to drink and play each day.

Plains wildlife: We refer to all herding animals who prefer the vast open plains over thick bush as “plains wildlife” and Ol Pejeta is abundant with them. Plains wildlife, in prolific numbers, include zebra, buffalo, gazelles, impala and eland as well as the endangered Jacksons hartebeest and reticulated giraffe.

Big Cats:

• Lions of all size and ages can be found resting in the shade in the heat of the day or on early morning / evening hunts. The conservancy is home to around 80 lions spread out between 8-10 prides and they are spotted regularly.

• Leopards are still rather elusive in our wild little corner of the world, but a few individuals are becoming more comfortable with vehicles and they are being seen every week or so. We hear them calling most nights and see their footprints all around the camp in the mornings.

• Cheetahs thrive in the open plains, where their speed is best observed. Cheetah populations have previously struggled on Ol Pejeta, like much of Africa, but they are making a slow comeback and, at the time of writing (2026), the conservancy is now home to 10-15 individuals.

Birdlife at Ol Pejeta Conservancy

With over 300 recorded bird species, Ol Pejeta is a rewarding destination for birdwatchers, and even non-bird watchers have found themselves entranced watching a spoonbill wading through the shallows or a superb starling glittering in the light of the day.

On Ol Pejeta you can expect to see…

• Raptors such as eagles and vultures: marshy eagles, tawny eagles and fisheagles are regularly spotted here. Vulture species are more secretive but do come out for meals!

• Colourful bee-eaters, kingfishers, starlings and weavers

• Large ground birds like secretary birds, bustards (including the impressive kori bustard) and storks

Best Time of Day for Wildlife Sightings

Wildlife at Ol Pejeta can be seen throughout the day, but some times are especially rewarding:

• Early morning: we encourage our guests to head out as early as possible because this is when predators are the most active, and the soft light is ideal for photography. We’ll send you off with a thermos of hot tea of coffee and a blanket for the car to keep you toasty warm on chilly mountainous mornings.

• Late afternoon / evening: you’ll rest in the heat of the day, just as all animals do. Then you’ll head out again when temperatures cool again in the late afternoon/evening.

• Midday: you don’t always have to be out and about though. In the heat of the day elephants, giraffe, buffalo and gazelles will wander infront of The Safari Cottages so you can enjoy game viewing from the comfort of your verandah.

With your own private vehicle and a dedicated guide, game drives at Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages are flexible; you can adjust your schedule to match wildlife movement rather than racing against the clock.

Experience Ol Pejeta’s Wildlife Firsthand

Staying within the conservancy, and especially within the wilderness area, allows you to experience wildlife at your own pace — from early morning game drives to peaceful evenings listening to nature from your safari cottage. If you’re dreaming of a safari where wildlife encounters feel natural, uncrowded and deeply memorable, The Safari Cottages on Ol Pejeta Conservancy is an exceptional place to begin.

View our rates and start planning your wildlife-rich safari experience.

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5 reasons to travel to Kenya in February

February feels much like “a settling” here at The Safari Cottages. As the buzz of the festive season draws to a close we can get our teeth into doing what it is we love most; enjoying the magic of the African bush and sharing that with our guests. February is a wonderful time of year to visit Kenya and very popular with our friends in the Northern hemisphere as it offers sunseekers the chance to escape the winter chill and spend their days dosed in sunshine instead. So, if you’re seeking some respite from the darkness traveling to Kenya in February is a wonderful way to up your Vitamin D intake in the best way!

An elephant drinking x Britt Von Steinen

Curious young hyenas x Britt Von Steinen

Here are five things we love about living in and traveling around Kenya in February…

1) Hot and dry weather

You may well associate hot dry weather with dusty feet, crunchy contact lenses and crispy hair but in Ol Pejeta the ground is still fairly settled after the November rains and grasslands are still being grazed down, keeping the dust largely at bay. But if you travel North to Samburu and beyond, or down to the drier reserves and parks like Tsavo and Amboseli, you’ll find dramatic dusty landscapes. As global weather patterns shift you’ll find that some parts of Kenya do experience sporadic rain showers around this time of year but, for the most part, you’re likely to enjoy clear, hot days all around the country so don’t forget to pack your sunhat and a big ol’ tub of sunscreen!

2) Big cats and big action

With limited rainfall and smaller, scattered water sources drying up plains game like zebra, buffalo and gazelles tend to gather at a more limited selection of water sources this time of year. The lions, leopards and cheetah know what’s up because they’ll often be spotted here too, waiting for herds to gather for the evening drink and finding dinner for themselves. If you’re looking for predator action on your Kenya holiday then February is the month for you!

Male lions fighting over a female in Ol Pejeta x Kat Macleod

3) Lazy days at the beach

Temperatures on Kenya’s coast tend to soar at this time of year, often times reaching up to the late thirties (celcius) in the middle of the day. The brilliant sunshine and the spicy climate brings out the lizard in us all; whether you are someone who likes to rest or not, spending a day sipping a cocktail and reading a good book on the beach is a lovely finale to your safari. And who knows, maybe a little bit of forced rest is exactly what you need? Head to the North coast to escape the crowds or Diani if you’re seeking out the Zanzibar-like white sand beaches.

Top tip: If you’re nervous about the heat opt for an air-conditioned hotel room or accommodation right on the beach where you can enjoy the fresh sea breeze.

4) Mountain views

Did you know that, although Mt Kilimanjaro is located in Tanzania, the the best views of this iconic mountain are actually from Amboseli National Park in Kenya. And as far as photographic backdrops go, the impressive peaks of Mt Kenya and Mt Kilimanjaro make for a pretty jaw dropping image! With the lack of rainfall around you’re likely to enjoy fantastic views of both of these iconic mountains during your February Kenya safari.

A giraffe on Ol Pejeta, infront of Mt Kenya at dusk

5) Couples and solo travellers get some quiet time

With most kids back at school, February is a popular time of year for couples and solo travellers who are looking for an adults-only safari experience to head out and enjoy a bit of R&R on their Kenya Safari Holiday. Our one-bedroom safari cottages make for a ideal escape if you’re searching for privacy and exclusivity and, as all our safari cottage are exclusive use, even families with very young children have their own dedicated space. So you’ll have a lovely bit of peace and quiet no matter what!

One bedroom safari cottage verandah

One bedroom safari cottage bedroom

BOOK YOUR FEBRUARY SAFARI TO KENYA

Bring your binos, your camera and book your February stay with us to experience one of Kenya’s most abundant wildlife conservancies; the award-winning Ol Pejeta Conservancy, at The Safari Cottages.

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Meet our Guides: Mike, Hezzie, James & Sam

We’re so proud to support an excellent team of guides who are passionate about the conservancy, the wildlife and preserving the ecosystem. They are a wealth of knowledge and love to share all they know with our guests so, today, we’re sitting down with them to hear more about their journey to becoming safari guides and what it is they love about working on Ol Pejeta.

MY JOURNEY TO BECOMING A SAFARI GUIDE: MICHAEL NDIRANGU (MIKE)

Laikipia native and Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages head guide, Mike, discovered his interest in guiding during his time working on Lewa Conservancy in 2002. His interactions with guests, full of questions about the natural world, inspired him to seek these answers for himself and he immersed himself in piles upon piles of books about Kenya’s flora and fauna, took part in studies whenever he could and enrolled in guide training and seminars with visiting local and international field experts.

Armed with years worth of knowledge and experience Mike decided to take control of his own destiny.

“In 2015, I decided to leave Lewa Conservancy and head out on my own as a free-lance guide. This was a difficult time for me as I had only ever worked at Lewa Conservancy and in 2017 I had to undergo a hip replacement due to arthritis.  After the surgery and recuperation, I slowly made my way back into guiding, when I was offered a bit of work at the Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages, guiding guests.

I have since then never looked back and I have become not only a member of the team, but a member of the Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages family.”

Mike hosting a picnic breakfast for Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages guests

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MY JOURNEY TO BECOMING A SAFARI GUIDE: Hesbon Odhiambo Omomdi (HEZZIE)

After completing High School our beloved Hezzie had an opportunity to join Abercrombie & Kent, assisting with their mobile camps in Kenya. This experience gave him his first glimpse into Kenya’s safari industry, the chance to explore the countries’ stunning wilderness areas, to encounter wildlife and begin to learn more about their their habitats. Hezzie knew he had found his place in the world. The seed was sown!

“In 2009 I left Abercrombie and Kent to join Porini Rhino Camp, set in Ol Pejeta Conservancy, I was employed as a waiter in the camp, but my interest was in learning more about wildlife and the ecosystems in the conservancy. I spent my free time reading as many books as I could to learn and it was this that drove me to want to become a guide. I sat for KPSGA in 2026 and obtained my Silver Level Guides Certificate.

I had by then worked my way up from being a waiter to a driver guide for the company. I continued to guide and worked my way to becoming the Head Guide for Porini Rhino Camp in Ol Pejeta.

I decided to move in 2023 to join the Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages, to gain more skills and experience. I love what I do, but it is being able to share my knowledge and experiences with guests, that is the driving force behind me being a guide.”

Hezzie enjoying an Ol Pejeta sundowner

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MY JOURNEY TO BECOMING A SAFARI GUIDE: JAMES WAMBUGU NGATIA

James’s knows Ol Pejeta better than any of us! His journey here started back in 2002, before it became a conservancy and was being operated as a cattle ranch. James was employed as a ranger and in 2004 the ranch fell under the management of Flora & Fauna International and was turned into a Rhino Conservancy. James retained his position as a ranger and had a pleasure of watching the incredible rise of the Ol Pejeta we know today.

“Being a ranger, I was fortunate to interact and work with many of the researchers and to provide them with protection, while at the same time gaining vast amounts of knowledge when out in the field. It was through this work with the researchers that I not only gained a respect for wildlife and their habitat, but it sparked a passion in me that I wanted to work at protecting wildlife but foremost of all to protect the most vulnerable and endangered species – the rhino!!!

In 2012 I became a guide as well as being an armed ranger with Ol Pejeta and loved my work in promoting tourism and the plight of the rhino. I enjoyed sharing all my knowledge with guests who visited the conservancy and speaking to school children about the issues of poaching and the effects it has on our national heritage. I worked with the Ol Pejeta Conservancy until 2022, when I left to join The Safari Cottages to share not only my knowledge but also the experiences of my life in the conservancy.”

James guiding our guests out on a day trip to Ngare Ndare Forest

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MY JOURNEY TO BECOMING A SAFARI GUIDE: SAMUEL KARIUKI

Sam joined our guiding team in the Summer of 2025 and has really come to life here, quickly showing himself to be a professional, highly knowledgable and much loved safari guide. From his home in Kenya’s lake district, Sam’s love of the natural world began at a young age and gave a him a clear vision of the future he would strive for. He graduated from college with a diploma in tour guiding and administration and went straight to work, guiding safaris in Northern Kenya.

“During high school my passion for nature and wildlife had greatly developed, and I joined the wildlife and environmental club. On completion of my secondary school, I joined college and attained a diploma in tour guiding and administration. I have been a proud driver guide, passionate about birds and animals, for over five years now.”

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Travelling to Kenya in April: What to Expect (And Why It Might Be Your Best Safari Yet)

Traveling out of season is easily our favourite time to travel! April is, and always has been, low season in Kenya. Most camps and lodges in remote areas in Kenya shut down over April and much of May due to issues with access; heavy rainfall can make roads in the Masai Mara incredibly sticky and difficult to navigate or, in places like Samburu, rising river levels can flood them altogether. For this reason, tourism comes to a fairy dramatic stop on the first of April.

But on Ol Pejeta Conservancy the April showers usher in lush green landscapes, and the kind of atmospheric, cloud-layered light that photographers dream about. Temperatures remain comfortable, and the overall effect of the green season is one of transformation — the plains turn a deep, vivid green, the rivers run full, and the conservancy takes on a lushness that the dry months simply can't offer.

A crisp April morning on Ol Pejeta

Cosying up by the fire listening to the rain

Google may say that Kenya is a no-go in April but here are five great reasons to ignore Google and do it anyway…

1) THE LOWEST PRICES OF THE YEAR

Green season rates at many safari properties are lower than peak season, and flights into Nairobi — the gateway to Kenya and to Ol Pejeta — tend to be more available and more competitively priced. For families or guests working with a budget, April can represent exceptional value without any real compromise on the experience. This includes the Easter school holidays; camps and lodges won’t hike up their prices for an otherwise expensive time to take the family on holiday elsewhere in the world.

2) GET THE PLACE ALL TO YOURSELF

Traveling out of season means space! It means you’re not fighting through mountains of safari vehicles to enjoy your sightings or needing to make a dinner reservation months in advance in one of Nairobi’s top restaurants. April is one of the quieter months on Ol Pejeta Conservancy. For guests who value the feeling of having the bush to themselves — of sitting with a sighting without another vehicle appearing — this is a significant advantage. The intimacy of the experience increases noticeably.

A rainstorm building on Ol Pejeta in early April © Kathrine Macleod

Is April a Good Time to See Wildlife in Kenya?

This is the question most travellers ask first, and the answer is more positive than many expect.

Wildlife at Ol Pejeta is resident year-round. The elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards, cheetahs and the extraordinary diversity of plains game that call this conservancy home don't migrate away in April — they stay, and they're often easier to find than the headline numbers suggest.

During the green season, predator activity remains strong. Lions and cheetahs are well-fed and relatively visible on the open plains. Elephants move through the conservancy in relaxed family groups, drawn to the abundance of fresh vegetation and water. Rhino sightings — one of Ol Pejeta's greatest strengths at any time of year — are consistent and rewarding.

The one honest caveat is visibility. When vegetation is at its most lush, spotting game in wooded areas can require a little more patience than in the stripped-back dry season. But with a skilled, experienced guide and the intimate knowledge of the conservancy that comes with living here, those sightings come — and when they do, the setting makes them feel genuinely cinematic.

Afternoon cloud cover cools temperatures, and a pride of lions prepares to hunt in the mid-afternoon

3) BEAT THE HEAT

There is something wonderful about the rain in Africa; it’s refreshing and full of life and, after a long, hot, dry season, we welcome the cooler temperatures that the April rains offer with open arms. If you are sensitive to heat, then you too may well enjoy this month of reprieve from the otherwise harsh African sun.

4) WILD RAINSTORMS AND WILD ADVENTURES

The April rains are wild and powerful showers that mostly hit us in the afternoons. We’ll so often hear the distant rumble of thunder whilst we have lunch, the wind picks up a little and the birds are suddenly excitable. We can’t help ourselves; the thrill of an impending African rainstorm never really goes away. We get swept up in it, pour a cup of tea and enjoy the meditative sound of heavy raindrops against the steel rooftops. And if you’re out on the plains when the rains hit then hold on tight; you’ll be slipping and sliding all the way home and you may even have to pop out to help your guide push the vehicle out a muddy patch, turning a pretty standard safari into an African adventure!

*Top top: traveling to Kenya in April? Pack some light waterproof/wellington boots that will keep your toes warm and ward off the mud and pack clothing that you don’t mind getting a little dirty. Most camps will supply you with an umbrella in your room but it’s always helpful to pack a light waterproof jacket too.

5) UNIQUE WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY

We’ve all seen a photograph of a lion but wildlife photography in the rainy season is really something else! Overcast skies diffuse the harsh African sun into something photographers call "natural softbox" light. Dramatic cloud formations build over the plains in the afternoons. The green backdrop makes wildlife portraits vivid and striking. And let’s talk about the effects of the rain itself; a herd of giraffe ambling across a stormy landscape, cheetahs jumping over puddles and navigating high rivers, rhinos rolling about in decedent mud baths and a slow shutter capturing the rainfall or a bird shaking off its wet feathers. Kenya in April offers you the chance to get the shot that no one else gets!

Cheetahs in the Masai Mara © Shivang Mehta

6) HELP CONSERVATION

Okay okay we said five, but we’re sneaking in another reason to book your April safari because it’s a really important one. A lot of conservancies, like Ol Pejeta, rely heavily on tourism to keep them going and they often struggle to push through quieter months like April and May. Choosing to travel in April means you’re giving these organisations vital aid in tough times; your conservancy fee is more valuable than ever, literally paying ranger salaries and keeping electric fences that protect endangered and critically endangered wildlife operational.

Click here to learn more about how your visit to Ol Pejeta is supporting wildlife conservation.

The Safari Cottages: Open All Year Round

The Safari Cottages are open twelve months of the year, and April is no exception. We've welcomed guests through every season the Laikipia region offers — the heat of January, the long rains of April, the drama of the peak dry months — and each has its own distinct character and rewards.

What stays constant is the experience we offer: a private guide, a dedicated vehicle, a personal chef, and a completely flexible schedule built around you. If an April morning produces spectacular light and your guide spots lion cubs near the northern sector, you stay as long as you like. If an afternoon shower rolls in earlier than expected, you're back at the cottage with a fire lit and tea ready before the heaviest rain arrives.

April at Ol Pejeta is not a compromise. It's a different kind of safari — greener, quieter, more atmospheric, and for guests who know to look for it, every bit as rewarding as the months that fill up first.

BOOK YOUR APRIL SAFARI TO KENYA

Take advantage of our absolute lowest rates, get the place to yourself and come visit us this April.

Planning a Kenya Safari in April: Quick Tips

Before you go, a few practical notes worth keeping in mind:

Pack layers. April mornings can be cool at altitude, and the rain brings a freshness to the evenings that makes a light fleece genuinely useful. Waterproof layers are worth bringing, though you're unlikely to need them for full days at a time.

Embrace the afternoons. If showers do arrive, they typically do so in the mid to late afternoon — which, as it happens, is the perfect time for a long lunch, a rest, or a quiet hour reading on the verandah. The bush has its own rhythm in April, and it suits a slower pace beautifully.

Don't be put off by online forums. Travel forums are full of well-meaning advice steering visitors away from Kenya in April. Much of it is based on outdated information, experience of different parts of the country, or a genuine lack of familiarity with what the long rains actually look and feel like on the ground. Talk to people who live here.

Book with confidence. April availability at quality properties is generally better than peak season, but it does fill — particularly around Easter, which falls in April most years and brings a noticeable uptick in family bookings. If April is your window, book sooner rather than later.

Kenya in April is one of East Africa's best-kept secrets. The guests who discover it tend to come back for it.

The Safari Cottages are open all year round and ready to welcome you in April — start planning your green season safari.

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Introduction to Spinners & Weavers

Nanyuki town is around a 90minute drive from Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages and is our closest town. We’ve been a part of this community for over twenty years now and have watched the town grow from a small, single, dirt through-road with a spattering of shops into what it is today; a busy settlement creating opportunities for local businesses to thrive.

We consider Nanyuki an extension of our home and our team is here almost every week to pick up supplies, take staff to doctors and dentists, run vehicle maintenance and more. We’ve come to love the people of Nanyuki and we’ve especially come to love a special place called The Spinners and Weavers.

Meet the Spinners & Weavers of Nanyuki

Spinners and Weavers was set up by the Nanyuki Presbyterian Church in the 70’s and is a sanctuary for widowed and disadvantaged women seeking refuge and employment. The program has helped over 280 women out of hardship; offering them necessary skills, training and income to support themselves and their families. Many of these women have left to create their own businesses or sister support groups all across the country.

Visiting the Nanyuki Spinners & Weavers

For those who linger a little longer at The Safari Cottages and are interested in learning more about the local communities, meeting the people and supporting them, we offer the chance to head to Nanyuki Town for a morning and visit the Nanyuki Spinners and Weavers. You will learn how they use traditional methods to create, by hand, unique wool rugs and you can support them by making a purchase or by making a donation.

If you’d like to support the Spinners and Weavers woman’s group on your next visit to Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages then let us know and we can arrange a morning out in Nanyuki town for you. As well as a visit to see the ladies you can also wander the local shops or explore one of Kenya’s favourite Mitumba markets where vendors sell second hand clothing and goods in a bustling outdoor bazaar.

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5 reasons to travel to Kenya in January

The magic of a fresh, new year is as palpable in Kenya’s town, villages, open plains and beaches as it is anywhere else in the world. There are few things we love more than waking up to watch the sun rise over Ol Pejeta Conservancy’s expansive wilderness as it lights up Mt Kenya on the first day of the year. The magic doesn’t end on day one though; nothing here pauses, life simply goes on, but something about us has changed; we’re seeing it all unfold through fresh new eyes.

Watching a rhino out on the plains x Britt Von Steinen

An evening campfire x Britt Von Steinen

The November rains usually settle by the middle of December and in January, on Ol Pejeta, we see large herds of plains game enjoying the bounty of the rainy season, covering the plains in large herds with lots of excited little ones.

As well as jubilant baby zebras, here are five more things we love about Kenya in January…

1) Excellent game viewing

By January we are well and truly into the dry season where, aside from the occasional afternoon shower, the weather is often sunny and wonderfully warm. A stark contrast to the lush green landscapes of the November rains. With grasslands largely munched down game viewing is a little easier as the cats can’t hide in the long grass; this makes stalking their prey a little more challenging but spotting them a little easier.

2) Walking weather

If you love walking and hiking, then January is the time for you. With more predictably drier weather you can enjoy some of the country’s most beautiful hikes like Mt Kenya and Mt Longonot. And on the country’s wide open plains this is a great time for bush walks because visibility in the bush is excellent and you’ll not likely get your boots muddied. Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages is a great place to acclimate before your Mt Kenya hike and to unwind afterward and we are often a resting place for hikers at this time of year.

3) Hit the beach!

January is easily one of the best times of the year to be on the Kenyan coast. After your safari head to Diani, Watamu, Malindi or Lamu to unwind and enjoy tropical, warm weather whilst you sip a margarita by the pool and clear waters with excellent visibility for diving and snorkeling.

Lions on a buffalo kill x Britt Von Steinen

4) Warm, starry nights.

The warmer daytime weather that is so often associated with a January Kenya safari often extends into the evenings too. Whilst we’re at 1,800m (6,000ft) above sea level and you’ll still need your fleece and socks, the real chill of the rainy months has well and truly settled down. And with clear skies we’re enjoying excellent star gazing in the evenings too.

5) Mid/late January: the sweet spot

The start of January is considered high season around most of the country and, as such, prices are elevated and you’re encouraged to book your January Kenya holiday far in advance to ensure you can get the space that you want. But, around the middle of the month, things quieten down a little bit and the 6 weeks that follow herald in a bit of a sweet spot where the wildlife is truly excellent, weather is reasonably reliable and prices are lower.

BOOK YOUR JANUARY SAFARI TO KENYA

Welcome the New Year on a Kenya Safari in January to get your year off to an unforgettable start filled with incredible wildlife, sweeping wild spaces and moments that will stick with you forever from your home-away-from-home at The Safari Cottages.

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The History of Ol Pejeta

The history buffs among us might be curious to know a little more about how Ol Pejeta Conservancy came to be. To understand how far we’ve come we sat down with owner/manager Sonja Webb to unravel a little of the conservancy’s history.

RANCHING

During the colonial era, the Laikipia region was an extensive ranching area where wildlife had little to no value to land owners. Low rainfall meant crops couldn’t thrive here but cattle could, and so the landscape was speckled with ranches packed with cows.

In 1949 Ol Pejeta, then owned by the colourful Lord Delemere, was under the management of John and Jane Kenyon who spent the best part of fifteen years pouring their life and soul into it’s development and expansion. The most noteable growth was is the early years when John was joined by a school friend and business partner of Lord Delamere named Marcus Wickham Boynton. Over the course of a few years Marcus and John took the bull by the horns (pun intended) and successfully upscaled the farm from a “humble” 57,000 acre ranch into a sprawling 90,000 acre estate and widely successful beef production company.

Twenty years later and with a, now sizeable, feather in their cap John and Jane retired from their roles on Ol Pejeta in 1969 to run their own cattle ranch in the north.

Ol Pejeta’s Boran cows ander the plains alongside the wildlife (May 2025)

Following John and Jane’s departure the ranch changed hands a few times, falling under the ownership of a slew of colourful characters including Marcus Wickham Boynton, who was notorious for occasionally shooting cattle “he didn’t like the look of,” as well as the infamous international arms dealer Adnan Khashoggi. Over time cattle ranching became less and less profitable though. To make matters worse for the ranchers, increasingly, elephant populations that previously used the ranch as a transit area from the Northern expanses of the country to Mount Kenya and the Aberdares were forced to take up permanent residence on the property as fences started to go up all around country blocking off wildlife migratory routes. As a result, the ranch’s cattle fences were often destroyed and maintaining the fences became unsustainably expensive and time consuming.

Consequently, they gave in to the elephants; in the face of declining wildlife populations elsewhere and the increasing popularity of tourism in Kenya, talk of repurposing the ranch for wildlife conservation and tourism purposes began.

John and Jane Kenyon’s farmhouse on Ol Pejeta

Ol Pejeta House now stands in it’s place

STEPPING INTO WILDLIFE CONSERVATION

In 1988, a portion of the ranch; the Sweetwaters game reserve (24,000 acres) was opened by another of Ol Pejeta’s previous owners, Lonrho Africa. Primarily, Sweetwaters started as a sanctuary for the endangered black rhino, but animals of all shapes and sizes benefited from the new focus and wildlife populations (including the “Big Five”) have been steadily increasing since that time.

Image x Alison Dewar

In 2004 the ranch was purchased by Flora and Fauna International, a UK based conservation organization and the conservation area extended to encompass the entire ranch. “The Ol Pejeta Conservancy,” approximately 90,000 acres in extent was born. It is the largest black rhino sanctuary in East Africa, with the aim of generating profit from wildlife tourism and complementary activities (including cattle ranching which still happens on the conservancy) for reinvestment into community development in the local area.

And that’s that. Andy and Sonja made their home on Ol Pejeta in 2009, and you can read more about their journey to calling Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages their forever home via the link below.

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5 reasons to travel to Kenya in December

The first couple of weeks of December in Kenya are considered “shoulder season, then “peak season” returns over the Christmas and New Year period as the majority of Kenyans celebrate this time of year and schools are closed so families are out and about enjoying all our beautiful country has to offer. You can expect sporadic showers if you travel to Kenya in December; a bit of a hangover from the November “short rains” but generally clear skies, lovely green landscapes and, for the most part, sunshine-filled days at the beach. December is a wonderful month to travel to Kenya! Here are five reasons why we love it…

Lions hunting on Ol Pejeta

1) Escape the chaos of the festive season.

If you’re someone who gets swept up and overwhelmed by Christmas shopping, office parties and family flying in from all over the world and sleeping on your sofa then you’re going to love the quiet solitude and stillness of the Kenyan bush instead! No crowds, no rushing; this is the ideal escape from the Western world and it’s festive season chaos.

2) Shoulder season pricing and crowds.

For the most part, you can expect low or mid-season pricing throughout November and into the first couple of weeks of December. Not only are you able to enjoy reasonable prices and fewer crowds but the weather is also slowly clearing, making way for expansive skies and rolling grassland where plains game thrive and, as a result, predators do too. Sneak your visit in before the 20th December to take advantage of this lovely little pre-Christmas pause.

3) Spend Christmas on safari!

Imagine a Christmas where you don’t have to do a lick of cooking or cleaning! Even better, you get to wake up in the bush, listening to lions whilst you sip eggnog under the African stars and your boxing day walk is one surrounded by elephants, giraffes and zebras. Choosing to go on safari to Kenya in December means you’re signing up for a unique Christmas experience you’ll never forget.

4) Party time.

If you’re up for a good time, you’ve come to the right place. There’s nothing Kenyans love more than a celebration. Festivities take over in the cities and major resorts, and beach parties that will keep you on the dance floor until sunrise are famous in the coastal regions of Mombasa, Diania and Malindi. At The Safari Cottages we’re very respectful of our neighbours (the wildlife) so you won’t find any raving midnight parties here but our staff share a song and dance around the fire and the chefs whip up an incredible Christmas spread that you’ll need to be wearing your comfiest, stretchiest pants to enjoy.

5) Birders paradise.

If you’re a birder then you’ll definitely want to be planning your Kenya safari in December as this is well known to be the best time of year for birds. Although bird numbers on the conservancy are impressive year round, thousands of migratory species from Eurasia and North Africa start to arrive in November and December, including the European bee-eater, Abdims stork and Steppe eagle.

BOOK YOUR DECEMBER SAFARI TO KENYA

There’s something truly magical about Ol Pejeta in December; the rush of the festive season feels a million miles away and we revel in the peace and quiet of bush. If you’re looking for an escape from the Christmas chaos, you’ve found it!

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Sonja's Kitchen: Traditional Kenyan Beef and Bean Stew

There’s beef stew and then there’s Kenyan beef stew which sits entirely in a league of it’s own, and we’re confident we’ve absolutely mastered it! This is a fan favourite dish for us all at The Safari Cottages; guests and staff alike, and served up with warm rice or ugali, Sonja’s Flakey Chapatis and some local vegetables dishes you’ve got yourself a simple, hearty, homey dish that’ll have you licking your chops and going back for seconds and thirds.

Sourcing your beef

Wherever possible aim for grass-fed organic beef. We source our beef directly from Ol Pejeta where the cattle roam freely on the conservancy and the meat is noticeably excellent; the higher quality the source, the better the result. This recipe also suggest using diced beef because this is the most common presentation but any cut will do; we particularly love using osso bocco (beef shin) or oxtail; the meat really falls off the bone beautifully.

MAKE IT SAUCY

Despite the focus on meat, Kenyan beef stew is actually all about the sauce so measure your beef with your heart in this recipe! This is because, traditionally, beef was very valuable and hard to come by and, for a lot of communities it still is, so if we’re really going to be true to the roots of this stew the use of beef should be really minimal and used mainly to provide flavour to the sauce which is soaked up with ugali to fill bellies. In fact the original version of this recipes calls for just 50g of beef! But these days, reasonably priced, good quality beef is more accessible for a lot of us so you can make your stew as meaty as you’d like.

Here’s our much-loved Kenyan beef and bean stew recipe, right from Sonja’s cookbook, Footprints in The Butter.

KENYAN BEEF & BEAN STEW

Serves 4

• 4 cups of red kidney beans or other beans (tinned or dried beans that have been soaked overnight)

• 50g-1kg diced beef (depending on how meaty you want your stew)

• 2 onions

• 3 carrots

• 4 tablespoons of your preferred cooking oil

• 2 tablespoons of flour

• 6 cups of water or beef stock

• salt and pepper to taste

1. Slice the onions, heat the oil and fry, adding the diced beef until it’s all brown.

2. Chop the carrots.

3. Remove the onion and the meat from the frying pan. Keep the oil on a low heat and add the flour, stirring continuously until brown.

4. Pour in the water, stirring continuously as you bring to the boil. Add salt, pepper, onions, beef, carrots and beans.

5. Reduce heat, cover tightly and simmer for about an hour until beef is tender.

Browning the beef shin

Combining beef with veg and beans

Adding the liquid

Let us know how your Kenyan beef and bean stew turned out! You can purchase Sonja’s recipe book Footprints in The Butter here for more of our favourite camp recipes.

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Ol Pejeta's mission to save the Northern White Rhinos

Ol Pejeta Conservancy is a 90,000 hectare wildlife conservation area in central Kenya and home to both endangered and critically endangered species including black and white rhino. Most famously though it is home to Najin and Fatu, the last two Northern White rhinos left in the world. Visitors to Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages often take the opportunity to visit “the girls” and meet their caretakers and, if you’re curious about the Northern White Rhinos, here’s a little background on how they came to be here, how you can see them and Ol Pejeta’s mission to bring this species back from the brink of extinction.

IN THE BEGINNING

On December 20th 2009 four of the world’s remaining seven Northern White Rhinos (Najin, Fatu, Suni and Sudan) were translocated to Ol Pejeta from a zoo in the Czech Republic after breeding attempts in captivity had yielded poor results. It was hoped that placing the rhinos in their natural environment would aid in their natural reproduction.

Unfortunately, despite everyone’s hopes natural reproduction failed time and again for a number of reasons and, with Sudan as the only male Northern White Rhino alive, it seemed unlikely to happen at all. In 2014 Suni passed away and further hopes were dashed when vets deemed the remaining two females Najin and Fatu incapable of natural reproduction and Sudan’s sperm count was disappointingly low.

In July 2015 the two Northern Whites in captivity passed away, leaving just the three on Ol Pejeta and then the world morned as Sudan, the last remaining male Northern White Rhino died of natural causes in March 2018. It seemed all hope had been lost.

Najin & Fatu with their keepers. Image x Ami Vitale

THE FUTURE OF NORTHERN WHITE RHINOS

At this point Ol Pejeta could certainly have rolled over and given up, but they chose to use the opportunity to make a statement; that no more species should be allowed to go extinct on our watch. They wanted to show the world that there was still hope for wildlife, even when things seemed so bleak. The years that followed saw the beginnings of a unique Biorescue project whereby scientists used stored sperm from male Northern White Rhinos that have passed away, and the eggs collected from Fatu to create embryos which were then implanted into a surrogate Southern White Rhino.

Fatu is preparing for the procedure to retrieve her eggs. Image x Ali Vitale

IVF has never been performed on rhinos before so testing began using the embryos of Southern White Rhinos and in 2023, in a bittersweet moment that made headlines around the world, Ol Pejeta shared the news that the project had been successful; an embryo had been successfully implanted into a female Southern White Rhino, however the rhino that carried that embryo had passed away during her pregnancy from a bacterial infection. Nothing more than very bad luck. But it left Ol Pejeta and all those working on the Northern White Rhino project with a new hope because, whilst the world morned, it became clear that this is in fact a viable solution to the global threat of mass species extinction. The next step is to transplant a Northern White embryo in the hopes to welcome the first Northern White Rhino calf since Fatu’s birth in 2000.

Najin & Fatu on Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Image x Ol Pejeta Conservancy

HOW TO VISIT THE NORTHERN WHITE RHINOS

Najin and Fatu and a selection of Southern White Rhinos being considered for surrogacy are incredibly well protected armed guards and under 24hr monitoring and care in a 700 acre predator free area within the conservancy. Visitors to the conservancy are invited to visit Najin and Fatu on pre-arranged tours where they can enter into the Northern White Rhino enclosure to meet the girls and learn more about the rhinos and about Ol Pejeta’s role in the Biorescue project.

If you’d like to learn more then tune into Nat Geo who have released The Last Rhinos: A New Hope which covers the story of this groundbreaking conservation project. Even better, book your stay at Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages and include a visit to the Northern White Rhinos to witness history unfolding.

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Photographs from PAST GUESTS visits to The Northern White Rhinos

Image x Kayla Neilson

Image x Yoga For The Wild

Image x Yoga For The Wild

Image x Yoga For The Wild

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What to expect on a day trip to Mt Kenya

Our central location means we’re able to offer our guests the opportunity to stay a little longer and spend some time exploring Laikipia beyond the conservancy. A day trip to Mt Kenya offers you the chance to see the mountain’s alpine wilderness without committing to a gruelling 5-day hike to the summit. Here’s what your day trip to Mt Kenya can look like…

Good morning!

You’ll wake up with the sunrise this morning, enjoying a cup of freshly brewed Kenyan tea or coffee on your verandah along with a light breakfast to get you going. After breakfast you’ll head off for your day of adventure. You’ll drive through the conservancy, keeping an eye out for any exciting wildlife activity, then pass through local villages and towns before turning right and entering into Mt Kenya Forest reserve.

Open plains give way to montane forest as you pass through the Sirimon entry gate and proceed to Old Moses base camp; the first overnight stop for those hiking to the summit. The drive takes you through farmland into rain forests, bamboo forests, cedar and yellow wood forest and across the moorland to Old Moses. Enroute you have the opportunity to see monkeys, baboons, buffaloes and bushbuck as well as a colourful array of birdlife.

Arriving at Old Moses image x Marcelo Ramella

Old Moses hike & picnic lunch

You’ll park up at Old Moses and explore the mountain’s unique, equatorial afromontaine moorland vegetation and incredible views across the surrounding Laikipia county and mountain foothills. You choose your distance; most enjoy an easy amble to the met station (around an hour’s hike) at around 3300m above sea level, and back again in time for lunch but you can follow the trail as far as you’d like. Weather depending you can wrap up and enjoy the views with a picnic at Old Moses or descend into the cedar forest and relax beneath the canopy of trees here for a leisurely picnic lunch.

Featured images below kindly shared by Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages guest Marcelo Ramella on their recent family safari.

Nanyuki & return home

You’ll pass through Nanyuki town on the drive back so, if you still have some energy after your morning out, you’re welcome to stop by and wander through the shops or local markets. We also recommend visiting the Spinners & Weavers; a local woman’s group that hand crafts beautiful woven rugs.

Nanyuki Spinners & Weavers Womens Group

If you prefer to head back to the bush you’ll have a game drive back to camp, arriving late in the afternoon to put your feet up and have a sundowner around the fire whilst the stars unravel overhead. What a day!

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Your Kenya Safari Packing List

Jetting off on your safari soon and wondering what to pack? We’ve got you. An African safari is unlike any experience you’ve ever had, and the continent is so vast that your packing list for, say, Rwanda will look very different to your packing list for Kenya. So, let’s get into it.

Here’s your Kenya safari packing list… 

CLOTHING

Colours: if you’re wondering if you need to go full khaki cowboy on safari the answer is yes, sort of. Of course, you can still pack your fancy frocks and florals, but bright colours can be distracting for wildlife especially on bush walks and the aim is to blend in as much as you can. If you’re hitting the beach after your safari then don’t forget to take multiple swimwear pieces, light, airy clothes that wick well and lots of reef friendly suncream.

Layers: temperatures can vary greatly from the Kenyan coast and desert areas to the highlands so layers will be your best friend. Light shirts, a fleece and maybe one warmer, slightly thicker coat will be all you need. Pack leggings and shorts too, because it can be chilly in the morning but by mid-morning it’s roasting.

Footwear: people often think hiking boots will be the best solution but, unless you’re traveling in the rainy season, or you’re hiking, these just take up unnecessary space and weight. Comfortable trainers will be fine and high, thick socks do help ward off mosquitoes nipping at your ankles in the evening. Aswell as closed shoes. be sure to pack sandals or similar relaxing footwear for just plodding around the camp in. If you are traveling in the rainy season, waterproof boots or shoes are helpful but you’ll also get by just fine with an old pair of trainers that you don’t mind getting muddy.

Top tip: As well as your suitcase or duffel it’s a great idea to travel with a smaller backpack or tote that you can pop spare clothes, some sunscreen, your phone or camera and a bottle of water in for your game drives.

CAMERAS

Clients so often ask us what kind of camera they need and the answer is, I’m afraid, not as simple as you might hope. Because it depends entirely on what you want from your safari. If you want to return home with a selection of beautiful wildlife photographs that you can blow up and mount on your bedroom wall then your iPhone probably isn’t going to cut it and you’ll need to invest in a good zoom lens. But if you’re more interested in just enjoying the experience and maybe snapping one or two pics of the sunset or the elephants to share on the family group chat then there’s no need to break the bank on a fancy new camera.

One thing to remember is that, if you’re heading off on your Kenya safari holiday with a new camera, make sure you test it and get really comfortable with it before your holiday. Otherwise, you’ll likely spend most of your time fiddling with the settings and you’ll miss all the magic.

OTHER BITS AND BOBS

• Memory cards: if you’re into photography, then you’re going to need multiple memory cards for your camera. It’s not uncommon to get home after a week in Kenya with around 3000 pictures to sort through! You will see a lot!

• Charging cables/adaptors: don’t forget all your charging cables and adaptors if you need them. Most camps and lodges will have power sockets (3-pin British style sockets) in the rooms or the main area but it’s always useful to have a mobile charging unit handy just in case.

• Toiletries/first aid: leaving bulky toiletries at home can help you save space, so check in with your accommodation to see what toiletries they provide. But, as well as your basic toiletries, it’s helpful to carry some essential first aid bits like antihistamine, paracetamol, rehydration salts and after sun lotion. Most camps can facilitate a visit to a nearby doctor but they may not be able to supply you with medications due to liability concerns.

• Binoculars: bring them! They may well add weight to your precious baggage limit but no one has ever regretted bringing a pair of binoculars on safari, but so many have regretted leaving them at home.

*A note on luggage. If you are flying locally be sure to check baggage restrictions as most bush flights will be operated by small aircrafts that have strict baggage limits.

Finally, as always, before you lock the door behind you and jump into your taxi to the airport don’t forget to double check you’ve got the essentials handy: passport, flight tickets, visas, emergency cash and cards.

Safari njema!

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Yoga for the Wild: Kenya yoga retreats for conservation

We’ve had the joy of welcoming a number of yoga retreat groups to The Safari Cottages over the years and we adore them all. Many of them return, year after year, to share the magic of Ol Pejeta with more of their guests and many of their guests have returned a number of times too.

Yoga For The Wild joined us for their first yoga retreat in 2021 and since then they have run five successful retreats with us, with another two coming up! They are sharing a little of their story with us today, and what it is that they love about their Kenya yoga retreat home-away-from-home, The Safari Cottages.

In the beginning

Laura and Kat met when Kat planned and booked Laura’s anniversary safari to Kenya for herself and her husband. They discovered a mutual love of yoga and of wildlife conservation and kept in touch over the years that followed. During Covid, when tourism collapsed in Kenya and funding for Ol Pejeta became dire they teamed up to host online yoga classes and events that raised funds for Ol Pejeta to help them through that tricky time. And when borders reopened they led two groups of like-minded yoga and wildlife loving guests on the first of what was to become many yoga retreats for the wild at Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages. To date, Laura and Kat have raised over $17,000 for Ol Pejeta and their in-person retreats have made a further positive impact over $21,000.

Laura, as you prepare to return to us for the fifth time, what is it about The Safari Cottages that you love that keeps you coming back?

“There are quite a few reasons I continue to return to Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages. Each time I visit feels like the first time - there are always new sightings and experiences! Even so, it is the wonderful people at The Cottages that keep me wanting to return time after time. It's very much a family atmosphere and everyone is there to help and make sure you're having the time of your life! They also value and prioritize the environment with a high set of standards and ethos to protect and care for our planet.

The guides are the best! They are so knowledgeable about every inch of the land. They are accommodating and I always feel safe with them.

It is just the most beautiful place! Mount Kenya's backdrop provides a picturesque view to the flat plateau of Laikipia. Even when it's not totally green, the landscape is still a stunning contrast,  but when it has rained and the greenery is vibrant and lush, it is absolutely breathtaking! The Cottages are surrounded with views in every direction and the potential for wild visitors is always thrilling.”

“The wildlife seems to thrive in Ol Pejeta. It's a perfect location and habitat for so many animals, and being protected by the conservancy allows them to naturally flourish. This is so encouraging given that many places in Kenya and throughout Africa are losing their wilderness and wildlife due to the ever growing human population. I'm so grateful to find a place where I can see wildlife being truly wild.

I feel more alive here than anywhere else on Earth. I feel close to the natural world, surrounded by good people and it really gives me hope that keeps me going even when I can't be there.” 

Kat, what are some of your favourite moments and experiences during your stays with us?

“I’m not a morning person at all but that changes when I’m at The Safari Cottages. I really love being up before sunrise and taking a cup of coffee down to the deck to practice yoga with our group at first light. There’s something so magical about the breaking of dawn here that really cracks you open, in the best way. The light, the texture of the air, the bird song. It’s so easy to be a morning person here!”

“But really every moment is so filled with wonder; I adore being out in the bush too. I grew up in the bush and spend as much time as I can here trying to share this wild place with my own kids too. So of course this environment is really the secret sauce to my inner peace - there is no better feeling in the world than sitting quietly in the car whilst elephants rumble around you or watching giraffe saunter across the plains whilst you have breakfast under an acacia tree or the incredible sensation of your bones rattling when a lion roars from only a few feet away.“

What is your vision for Yoga For The Wild?

“We return to Ol Pejeta every year to lead our annual Kenya yoga retreat; The Safari Cottages feels like home to us and Ol Pejeta continues to be such an incredible force for good that we are very passionate about rallying behind their efforts to make the world a better place. We've recently expanded to additional locations in Zimbabwe and the Maldives and have plans for even more adventures on the horizon, but we will always return to Ol Pejeta as it really represents the need for protecting our planet and all beings who call it home. The story of the iconic northern white rhinos at Ol Pejeta have a huge impact on all who visit and a way of changing people for the better by prioritizing the planet.

"The heartbeat of our operation is to go where the wildlife needs us and to share the magic of the world's wildest places with as many people as we can. Not only does this empower them with the understanding of why it’s so important that we continue to fight for the protection of endangered and critically endangered animals and their environments, but also creates a global community of people making a difference.”

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5 reasons to travel to Kenya in September

September is considered “high season” in Kenya but, if you’re crowd-averse, don’t let that deter you from your visit. This is a wonderful time of year and there is a reason that so many choose to travel in high season months. If you’re considering a Kenya safari holiday in September then here are five reasons why it’s your best idea yet!

1) It’s great for couples and adult travellers

For so much of the world, schools reopen in September after the Summer break and so families are no longer traveling. That means better availability and more options to choose from when it comes to finding lodging that suits you. It also means there is less competition for seats on airlines. At The Safari Cottages our one-bedroom safari cottages are absolutely ideal for couples looking for privacy and exclusivity; they come with a private chef and a dedicated, expert guide and vehicle. What a pleasure!

2) You can leave your umbrella at home

Whilst we can never say never, September is usually a very dry time of year; you may be treated to the occasional afternoon shower, if you’re lucky. That means there’s a very low risk of being rained in and not able to go out and enjoy the bush and, if you’re visiting the coast, you can expect predictably clear skies and warm weather for your days lounging on the beach.

3) Excellent game viewing

The drier weather means shorter grass so it’s easier to spot lions lounging out on the plains and track cheetahs as they race across the grassland on a hunt. The lack of rainfall also means that water sources are more concentrated so predicting when and where you can see wildlife at popular waterholes is more accurate. At The Safari Cottages we’re watching elephants, giraffe, rhino, buffalo and more frolicking in the river and resting in the near by shady trees every time we sit down for a meal.

4) The great migration

Many people choose to travel to Kenya between July - October to witness the great migration of wildebeest and zebra from the Serengeti into the Masai Mara. And for good reason; it’s a site to behold! We’d recommend starting your safari in Laikipia then flying down to the Masai Mara on a direct flight - this way you’ll get to see more of the country and enjoy the quiet of the highlands where you can settle in to your safari before you head the busy Masai Mara to witness one of the seven natural wonders of the world.

5) The start of whale shark season

With more predictable, excellent weather conditions across East Africa this is a great time for the classic “bush and beach” safari itinerary. Not only are the waters clear and beautiful but it’s the start of the whale shark season in East Africa and if seeing these incredible gentle giants is on your bucket list then you have a strong chance of being able to tick that one off!

BOOK YOUR SEPTEMBER SAFARI TO KENYA

Wildlife is abundant year-round in Ol Pejeta but there is something really wonderful about September; the lions are thriving and baby animals are popping up at every turn. We also tend to conduct our safari activities primarily in the wilderness area of the conservancy at this time, which has restricted access and means that game viewing isn’t as the mercy of big crowds of vehicles, as it is in the country’s national parks and reserves. It’s such a treat to have such privacy on your safari despite traveling during one of the busiest months of the year!

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A dream come true: building and running our safari camp in Kenya

From the outside, a stay at The Safari Cottages is all wildlife on your doorstep, roaring fires ready for your arrival, chilled wine on the African plains, big smiles and big hearts. What you don’t really get to see or understand is the vision, the hard work and the dedication that comes with living your dream every day and sharing it with the world. So today we thought we’d share an interview with Ol Pejeta Safari Cottages owners, Andy and Sonja Webb to hear more about how they came to be here and what it’s really like living their dream every day in the African bush.

WHERE IT ALL BEGAN

Andy and Sonja met in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe in their teens, and married young, before moving to Lake Kariba to grow their family and begin their journey in the safari industry. Over the next eighteen years Andy became one of Southern Africa’s most celebrated guides and the two of them built and ran life-changing mobile safaris in Zimbabwe; Sonja seamlessly handling the catering, marketing and business admin whilst Andy expertly hosted and guided life-changing bush experiences for their guests.

In 2003 they moved to Kenya’s Masai Mara and built, from the ground up, four incredibly successful Kenya safari camps that still hold rank in the country’s top safari properties. Finally in 2017, after forty years of guiding, hosting, building and operating safari camps and mobile operations in Zimbabwe and Kenya Andy and Sonja found their forever home on the Ol Pejeta Conservancy. It was here that they took all these years of experience and passion and expertise to create a bush experience that offers their guests everything that really matters without the fuss, without the hefty price tags and without the pretence. It was here that they redefined “luxury,” because the real luxury on safari, they know, lies in incredible value for money, in privacy and exclusivity, in feeling like you belong completely.

 Andy, what was it about this location that appealed to you? And what were your top priorities in terms of minimising ecological impact during the construction?

“We found our location along the Ngobit River; this was originally a cattle station for Ol Pejeta Ranching Ltd and previously very barren. It had been completely overutilized by humans and livestock and the old wooden ranch managers house, built in the 50’s, still stood here but was totally unliveable. So our first thought was that it just made sense to build in an area where the soil had already been turned (utilised) rather than destroying virgin bush.

I think about our impact pretty much every day and protecting the existing, fragile eco system was a top priority for me during the build so I was careful to work around as many trees as possible and we upcycled the wood from the old house (stunning, aged cedar, purchased from Ol Pejeta) to make a lot of our furniture. To further protect both existing and new trees (primarily from from elephants - we love them but they can be very destructive) we ran a single strand electric fence around the property and wrapped some of the neighbouring acacias in chicken wire. The trees thanked us for it; today there is a beautiful grove of Yellow Bark Acacias in front of the cottages that not only look wonderful but support a multitude of insect and bird eco systems.”

 Sonja, when it came down to curating and refining the guest experience what was your vision for the food, décor and staffing? What has most influenced your style and vision?

“Growing up on a farm in Zimbabwe, and being from an Afrikaans/Dutch descent, I have always had a passion for cooking and creating delicious dishes, pickles, and jams. This also stems from spending many happy hours in the kitchen with my Gran, Aunts and Mum who taught me to believe in the magic of a good, healthy, home cooked meal and gave me the foundational skills to create these types of dishes, with a little twist added by my amazing chefs.

I have always loved arts and crafts, so décor was a natural part of the learning process too. I did a year-long study in interior design, which I absolutely loved and this continues to fufill an artistic niche in my life. This love only grew as I designed and decorated a handful of camps in Zimbabwe and Kenya. I am a “bush bunny” at heart so when it came to setting up The Safari Cottages, my daughter Kathrine and I (we share a similar aesthetic) pulled together a vision board full of rich, warm colours and textures that were inspired by nature; I wanted people to walk in and feel like they have arrived home.

We worked closely with the staff during the design phase; hiring their artisan family members and purchasing hand-made goods from their communities whenever we could. The staff are a massive part of what we do and are the ambassadors for The Safari Cottages, so it was important that they love the space as much as I do.”

BEHIND THE SCENES: DAY TO DAY RUNNING OUR DREAM KENYA SAFARI CAMP

The days start nice and early, as radio chatter merges with birdsong and the askaris are preparing for morning calls. Andy and Sonja love to sit on the veranda with a cup of coffee and listen to Africa wake up as the sun rises, watching the day unfold before them. Then, when guests are well on their way for their morning game drive, they’re in the office, answering emails and checking in with their team for the day. They will often have guests who linger for breakfast in camp instead of heading out at first light, so they will usually pop down to say hello and make sure they have all they need or if they have any questions or concerns that can be addressed. Then the day really kicks off; restocking kitchen supplies, managing guest movements, vehicle and property maintenance, business management, preparing rooms and welcome packages for arrivals and allocating vehicles for transfers, supply runs and activities.

They will often host bush brunches in the late morning too, so after a quick bite to eat they’ll load up vehicles with staff, equipment and food then head to the river to set everything up ready for the guests’ arrival. If they aren’t out and about at midday then lunch is usually delivered to the office, and they admit they’re lucky enough to eat incredibly well thanks to their team of chefs! They’ll then check in with any guests they have yet to chat with at teatime, before they head off on their afternoon activity and finish up any final tasks and checks for the day.

In the evenings, if things are quiet, they try to make time to enjoy a sundowner together or to talk a walk around the property with the dogs (and the cat!) before the guests return. This is a great opportunity to assess the perimeter and grounds, and to spend some quality time enjoying their bush home and their years of hard work, love and care.

 Sonja, what do you find the toughest part of managing the behind the scenes and what is the most rewarding part of it all?

“I would say that the toughest part behind the scenes would be making sure that everything from the cottages, menus, orders, and staff are all operating smoothly. I just love it when the “Floating Duck Syndrome” is well in place; things look to be operating with smooth, calm efficiency on the surface but we’re paddling like crazy out of sight!

I find the most rewarding part of all of this is being able to share my home in the African wilderness and love for nature with amazing guests and having them leaving wanting more!”

Andy, what is your favourite part of each working day?

“Sunset, easily. After a busy day in the office, welcoming new arrivals and bidding farewell to departures, chatting with guests over lunch down on the river deck we will often pack a cold beer or gin and tonic and enjoy a sundowner on the plains behind the cottages.”

“Like all other business, running The Safari Cottages is no mean feat and comes with it’s fair share of challenges, set backs and frustrations. But in the moments of quiet we so often look to one another and think, "aren’t we lucky to wake up each morning in a place that we love and spend our days pouring our hearts into watching our dream come true!" - Andy & Sonja

What to expect on a day trip to Ngare Ndare

Ngare Ndare Forest is a bit of a hidden gem. This is a community owned and run trust tucked away in the foothills of Mt Kenya that forms part of the wildlife corridor between the northern wilderness of Laikipia and Mt Kenya. Whilst this is not necessarily a safari experience you’ll likely spot bushbuck, warthogs and elephants on your day trip to Ngare Ndare as they pass through this corridor and the best place to spot them is from the forest’s suspended canopy walkway.

Your day out at Ngare Ndare

You’ll be woken early with a fresh, steaming cup of Kenyan coffee or tea delivered to your Safari Cottage and a delicious breakfast of hot food, baked goods and fresh fruit with Sonja’s famous homemade granola to get you going for the day. After a hearty breakfast you’ll head out on your adventure, looking out for wildlife on the way out of the conservancy. Your journey continues through nearby Nanyuki town and the surrounding farmland and villages, giving you an insightful glimpse into life in rural Kenya, before you arrive at Ngare Ndare in the mid-morning.

Ngare Ndare Waterfalls

You’ll be met by a local ranger and begin the 45-90 minute hike up to the falls stopping enroute to learn about the trees, flowers and footprints you’ll find along the way. This forest is also filled with incredible birdlife including Hurtlabs turaco, the Narina trogon and paradise flycatcher. You’re at altitude so remember to stop frequently to catch your breath and take a full bottle of drinking water. You’ll clamber down to the river for the final part of the hike; following the waterways to find Ngare Ndare’s crown jewel - an enchanting waterfall that descends into an azure blue swimming hole (if you’re traveling in the rainy season though be aware it may be a little browner than you might expect). It’s chilly but if you can brave the cold a refreshing dip might be just what the doctor ordered on a hot day!

Ngare Ndare Canopy Walkway

You’ll wander 30-45minutes back down the hillside to find the start of the canopy walkway. This is a 450m long bridge elegantly suspended through the trees and where you can wander at leisure looking out for big wildlife like buffalo, giraffe and elephant, birds or just enjoying the views across the forest. The walkway ends at a platform overlooking a swamp below where you may be able to spot resident bushbuck or other wildlife. Descend from the canopy to a picnic lunch with your guide, soaking in this magical, wild forest for a few final moments before your journey home.

Game driving home

The day is far from over! On your drive back you’ll pass through Nanyuki once again and then return through the conservancy gate, stopping to enjoy the wildlife on the way and watching the sun drop below the horizon and lighting up the sky overhead. You’ll arrive for a drink around the fire, unwinding after your adventures and tuck into a delicious hot dinner under the stars. What a day!

Does a day our exploring the beauty of Ngare Ndare sound like just what you need? Read more about our day trips here and book your stay.

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